Roses diseases and pests
The database lists 5 problems recorded on this crop. 0 of them can cost the whole harvest, and 3 survive in soil or debris into next season — those are the ones that decide your rotation. The largest number are active in June.
Pressure through the year
The number of problems listed as active in each month. Pick a month to see what to sow, plant and harvest then.
Start from what you can see
What actually prevents them
Water at the base of the plant in the morning, never over the leaves. Splashing soil onto foliage is the delivery route for every problem listed here, and morning watering lets anything that does land dry before nightfall.
Applies to: Black Spot (Roses), Rust
Mulch the soil surface. A physical barrier between last season's spores and this season's lowest leaves removes the first infection of the year, which is the one that seeds all the others.
Applies to: Black Spot (Roses), Rust
Give the plants their full spacing 60×90 cm and keep the centre of each one open. Air moving through the planting dries the leaves faster, and leaf wetness duration is what turns a spore landing into an infection.
Applies to: Powdery Mildew
Rotate this bed and everything else in the same family on at least a three-year cycle. 3 of the problems below survive in soil or crop debris between seasons, so returning the same crop to the same ground hands them the host they were waiting for.
Applies to: Black Spot (Roses), Powdery Mildew, Rust
Clear and remove the spent crop at the end of the season rather than digging it in. Debris left on the surface is where the persistent problems overwinter, and next spring they start from your own bed rather than from somewhere else.
Applies to: Black Spot (Roses), Powdery Mildew, Rust
Every listed problem
Ordered by how much they can cost you.
Fungal diseases(3)
- Black Spot (Roses)Moderate
Rounded black spots with feathery, fringed margins on leaves, surrounded by yellowing; affected leaves drop early, leaving bare canes.
- How it spreads
- Rain and irrigation splash
- Compost
- Hot compost only
- Conditions
- 18–27°C · humidity ≥85% · wet leaves / rain
- First move
- Treat, then re-check in 5–7 days
- Powdery MildewModerate
White to grey powdery coating on the upper surface of leaves and stems, later yellowing, curling and premature leaf drop. Fruit may be stunted or sun-scorched as the canopy thins.
- How it spreads
- Wind-blown spores
- Compost
- Hot compost only
- Conditions
- 15–28°C · humidity ≥60%
- First move
- Treat, then re-check in 5–7 days
Also at risk: Cucumbers, Zucchini, Peas, Pumpkins, Apple trees, Grapes
- RustModerate
Yellow, orange, or rusty-brown powdery pustules on leaf undersides with yellow speckling above; severe infection causes leaf drop and weakened plants.
- How it spreads
- Rain and irrigation splash
- Compost
- Hot compost only
- Conditions
- 10–24°C · humidity ≥85% · wet leaves / rain
- First move
- Treat, then re-check in 5–7 days
Also at risk: Beans, Leeks, Garlic, Broad beans, Sweetcorn, Asparagus
Pests(2)
- AphidsModerate
Clusters of tiny green, black or grey insects on new growth and leaf undersides; curled, distorted leaves; sticky honeydew and black sooty mould; ants tending the colonies.
- How it spreads
- Carried by insects
- Compost
- Safe to compost
- Conditions
- 16–28°C
- First move
- Treat, then re-check in 5–7 days
Also at risk: Peppers, Lettuce, Cabbage, Beans, Spinach, Kale
- Japanese BeetleModerate
Leaves skeletonised to a lacy network between the veins, chewed flowers and fruit, and clusters of feeding beetles on warm sunny days; brown patches in lawns from root-feeding grubs.
- How it spreads
- Carried by insects
- Compost
- Safe to compost
- Conditions
- 21–35°C
- First move
- Treat, then re-check in 5–7 days
Why rotation matters here
3 of these overwinter in the soil or in crop debris rather than on the plant. Pulling the sick plant does not remove them: they wait for the same host to come back to the same ground.